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of China's Largest Waterfalls complex, Kung Fu Fighting Highlanders, Carp
Worshippers, and the "walk-on-water" lake of Baishuiyang...
Pages: Ningde Main Page Xiapu
and King Carp
Zhouning’s kung fu fighting highlanders don’t wok fish but
worship them, and bury their gilled gods in the village’s Carp Cemetery!
This fishy state of affairs began after dozens of carp corpses tipped
villagers off that wicked folk upstream had poisoned the water. That was
800 years ago and carps have been king ever since, and they’re so
cocksure of themselves that they’ll eat sesame cakes right out of
But Zhouning is more than just fishy religions. It has some of China’s
most magnificent mountain scenery, and Nine Carp Falls, China’s
largest waterfalls complex. It also has the best summer weather in Fujian.
With an 888-meter altitude, this “Naturally Air Conditioned City”
(Tianran Kongtiao Cheng) is the highest in Fujian. So it’s well
worth the drive.
I've visited Zhouning several times, and it is now one of my favorite
places in Fujian. Check it out! Read more in "AmoyMagic--Guide
to Xiamen and Fujian" (p.251-254), or "Fujian
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Guide to Xiamen and Fujian
the 104 Highway I turned west onto the 319 Road, just opposite the Zongde
Town City Temple (which looks more like a Shanghai foreign tourist trap
than a place of worship). The 319 snaked and slithered higher and higher
into the lush, bamboo-blanketed mountains, giving me a marvelous view
of the city below before cresting the summit and descending into a series
of lush valleys. Like most Fujian roads it followed a river, but such
a river! Naked youth frolicked in cool waters that sparkled and splashed
in the sun like liquid agate of colors that might have inspired Joseph¡¯s
Technicolor coat: bands of blue, purple, and green.
The 319 was so narrow and twisted that large vehicles were banned, but
somehow a few trucks and buses got past the concrete barriers and careened
around blind curves playing ¡°Hero Car¡± (the Chinese version of ¡°Chicken¡±¡ªa
fowl sport no matter what you call it). Eventually we bottomed out into
a broad valley with a small town that boasted no less than three large
Catholic churches, their white crosses visible for miles. I provided the
town¡¯s weekly entertainment when I bought adhesive tape in a shop to
patch up my recorder, which had cracked open.
On a bridge, on the west side of town, my Fuding comrades handed me over
to three smiling Zhouning officials. It looked like a prisoner exchange
between East and West Berlin.
I didn¡¯t see if they got a receipt.
We set off westward and upward, maneuvering past construction that was
doubling the width of the road. As we climbed high above valleys blanketed
in endless rows of the local Fuyun (Cloud of Prosperity) #6 tea, my new
friend briefed me on the wonders of Fujian¡¯s highest town.
When the concrete road vanished, replaced by a smooth ribbon of tar, my
friend said, ¡°Welcome to Zhouning! Are roads are only tar because we
are so far inland, and aren¡¯t as rich as Fu¡¯an.¡±
But if ¡°Millionaire¡¯s Row¡± is any indication, just give them time...
Last Updated: May 2007
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